Damon
King Kong
Clay bar? Clay what?
So you’ve thoroughly cleaned your car using the Wash Guide I’ve provided so is the car clean?
To a degree, yes. But your paintwork will still have contaminants bonded to the paintwork that will lessen the effect of any polish or wax you apply.
If you want the best possible finish and get most from your finishing wax you need to get the paintwork in the best possible condition.
After you've washed your car, run your fingers over the paint. If it feels rough, instead of being totally smooth then the surface has contaminants which need to be removed. Oils, dirt, brake dust, tar, and acid rain deposits from the environment form tiny particles which stick to your paint. Over time they build up and form an invisible layer.
When contaminants bond to the paint washing alone is not enough.
Before you polish or wax your paint, these contaminants must be removed to insure maximum life from your wax and make your polishing easier. Don't make the mistake of waxing over these contaminants. These contaminants, on a microscopic level, look like volcanoes on your paint and will not accept a wax barrier like a smooth paint surface.
Clay is soft and will remove these surface contaminants without inflicting defects into your car’s paint. Clay is pliabe and tacky, it acts like an exfoliate pulling away contaminants.
Most importantly, you must use a lubricant to allow the clay to work without damaging your car’s paint. This is achieved by using a diluted quick detailing solution. Quick Detailer is a water-based carnauba solution, this provides the lubracy that the clay needs.
First of all kneed the clay until its warm, and then by working in an area of two square feet at a time, spray the surface and wipe the clay back and forth. You don’t need to rub hard.
You’ll feel the clay pulling and when you look at it you’ll see the grime, grit and tar, it will look like this…
This is clear evidence of the bonded on contaminants, this was from a new car with only 3k miles on it.
Turn the bar in half, kneed and spread into another flat shape and repeat.
To finish wipe the area you are working dry with a microfibre cloth and you’ll find a fantastically smooth surface that is ready for your chosen paint prep and wax combo.
You should find a clay bar last your car 8-10 applications (dependant on frequency and usage of car). If you drop it on the floor, bin it, DONT be tempted to resuse it, you will scratch your car severely.
My current clay of choice is the Sonus Green Clay Bar
This might seem like a lengthy process, but if you try it and experience the results you'll be convinced of its benefits. Customers of mine can testify to the difference this makes.
You can clay your windows and wheels too
So you’ve thoroughly cleaned your car using the Wash Guide I’ve provided so is the car clean?
To a degree, yes. But your paintwork will still have contaminants bonded to the paintwork that will lessen the effect of any polish or wax you apply.
If you want the best possible finish and get most from your finishing wax you need to get the paintwork in the best possible condition.
After you've washed your car, run your fingers over the paint. If it feels rough, instead of being totally smooth then the surface has contaminants which need to be removed. Oils, dirt, brake dust, tar, and acid rain deposits from the environment form tiny particles which stick to your paint. Over time they build up and form an invisible layer.
When contaminants bond to the paint washing alone is not enough.
Before you polish or wax your paint, these contaminants must be removed to insure maximum life from your wax and make your polishing easier. Don't make the mistake of waxing over these contaminants. These contaminants, on a microscopic level, look like volcanoes on your paint and will not accept a wax barrier like a smooth paint surface.
Clay is soft and will remove these surface contaminants without inflicting defects into your car’s paint. Clay is pliabe and tacky, it acts like an exfoliate pulling away contaminants.
Most importantly, you must use a lubricant to allow the clay to work without damaging your car’s paint. This is achieved by using a diluted quick detailing solution. Quick Detailer is a water-based carnauba solution, this provides the lubracy that the clay needs.
First of all kneed the clay until its warm, and then by working in an area of two square feet at a time, spray the surface and wipe the clay back and forth. You don’t need to rub hard.
You’ll feel the clay pulling and when you look at it you’ll see the grime, grit and tar, it will look like this…
This is clear evidence of the bonded on contaminants, this was from a new car with only 3k miles on it.
Turn the bar in half, kneed and spread into another flat shape and repeat.
To finish wipe the area you are working dry with a microfibre cloth and you’ll find a fantastically smooth surface that is ready for your chosen paint prep and wax combo.
You should find a clay bar last your car 8-10 applications (dependant on frequency and usage of car). If you drop it on the floor, bin it, DONT be tempted to resuse it, you will scratch your car severely.
My current clay of choice is the Sonus Green Clay Bar
This might seem like a lengthy process, but if you try it and experience the results you'll be convinced of its benefits. Customers of mine can testify to the difference this makes.
You can clay your windows and wheels too
Last edited:
